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Ultraviolet Sterilizers

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Algae Control – No more green water

What’s the difference between a UV Clarifier and a UV Sterilizer?

UV-Clarifiers are used to kill algae along with some disease organisms. The water flows through UV-Clarifiers faster than the UV-Sterilizers.

UV-Sterilizers kill 99% of floating algae as well as other living organisms. They do not harm the beneficial bacteria that grow in filters and on rocks, etc. in the pond. They kill the organisms that are floating in the pond water.

For Koi keeping it is best to opt for a UV sterilizer because it not only clears ‘Green Water’ but, as the term ‘Sterilizer’ infers, it also sterilizes the water itself – thus helping to kill the harmful Bacteria that lives in the water.

How does a UV Filter clear green water?
Single-celled green algae, (Chlorella vulgaris) require light and nutrients to thrive. It is one sign that your pond is generally healthy, and it even makes a great food additive for farm animals, but it doesn’t do much for your overall enjoyment of viewing Koi!

The small algae cells can pass through all conventional filter, so physically filtering them out in their normal form is next to impossible. However, passing the cells through a UV disrupts their internal structure, if not actually killing them, at which time they clump together or ‘flocculate’. These clumps can then be trapped and broken down by the filter.

When to use a UV:
Most Koi keepers will keep their unit(s) on year round. But for small garden ponds you may find that only in the spring, with the combination of longer days and an upsurge in fish activity, is UV necessary. If you do run your UV year-round, it must be protected from frost in a well-ventilated housing. Remember it is important to replace your UV lamps annually for peak performance.

How much UV do you need for your pond?
Purely for green water eradication, 8-10 watts per 1,000 gallons is usually recommended, but some pond keepers will maintain that, for a reduction of bacterial levels, this can be increased threefold to 30 watts. Other factors to consider are of course flow rates, and stocking levels.

Should you have any questions regarding UV, we’ll be only too happy to help you.

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Why would you settle for Plastic when You can have Stainless Steel for less? This exciting new UV was designed to work with today’s low amperage pumps and high flow filters, such as the AquaBead/AlphaONE line.

Sporting an impressive 4″ vessel with 2″ inlets/outlets means no flow restrictions.

These units are truly high performance/high intensity units utilizing over 70,000 microwatts of killing power. Few UV’s can make this claim.

These units won’t nickel and dime you to death. Replace only one lamp instead of several. This could save you big “$”.

Changing a lamp or ballast on these is so simple even an adult can do it. It’s not as complicated as programming your VCR. Remove the top cover, unplug the single 4 prong connector, slide out the lamp and insert the new one and you’re done. Removing the quartz tube is just as easy.


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Aqua Ultraviolet Sterilizers

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Aqua Ultraviolet is the Ultraviolet specialist. “Just turn us on!”

All units are weather resistant and come with a lifetime limited warranty on the housing. International units and parts are available.

The Industry Leader in Ultraviolet Sterilizing: Ultraviolet Sterilization is a proven, dependable and effective method for controlling and eradicating algae spores, bacteria and protozoa present in the water source Ultraviolet alters or disrupts the DNA and RNA of target organisms. By properly implementing an Aqua Ultraviolet disinfecting system in-line, the targeted organisms can be eradicated effectively with out any harmful residuals.

Units Available in White or Black

UV Wattage Maximum Water Flow Maximum Pond Size Inlet / Outlet # of Bulbs
Use this chart
to determine
the right UV.
8 watts 642 gallons per hour 5-200 gallons 2″ 1
15 watts 700 gallons per hour 200-500 gallons 2″ 1
25 watts 1,200 gallons per hour 500-1,200 gallons 2″ 1
40 watts 2,900 gallons per hour 1,200-2,000 gallons 2″ 1
57 watts 3,200 gallons per hour 1,500-3,000 gallons 2″ 1
80 watts 3,678 gallons per hour 2,200-4,400 gallons 2″ 2
120 watts 4,080 gallons per hour 4,400-6,000 gallons 2″ 3
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Pond Heaters

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There is much debate as to whether koi hibernate in the winter. There are those that would have you believe that this is a natural state and quite healthy for your fish, while others would say that this causes undo stress.

Regardless of which side of the fence you are on, there are some important facts to consider:

  • When koi ponds ice over, harmful gasses from decaying plants, algae and fish waste cannot dissipate.
  • Heating a koi pond helps greatly reduce stress on your stock.
  • Providing heat will assist your koi’s immune system.
  • Your biological filtration will continue and avoid a start-up in the spring.
  • You can continue the feeding of your koi to maintain good nutrition.
  • You can protect your investment, by minimizing loss.

Winter can be very long and harsh for our koi. An increasing number of koi keepers are heating their ponds for the following reasons:

  • Very low temperatures are avoided, causing less stress and associated health problems.
  • Temperature fluctuations are avoided – once again causing less stress to your koi.
  • Koi emerge from the long winter into spring considerably stronger, reducing mortality rates.
  • Your koi’s immune system is not suppressed.
  • Biological filter systems remain active throughout the winter months, avoiding the long start-up process in the spring.
  • Last, but not least, heating your pond allows the Koi keeper to enjoy their hobby throughout the winter months.

Why heat you koi pond?

Well for starters, you will be able to feed your koi for the whole twelve months of the year, so that they will get the full nourishment they require to keep them in good condition. The risk of losing koi will be dramatically reduced because you will be able to maintain a temperature acceptable to them.

With the cost of our koi increasing, it would only take the loss of just a single good koi to far outweigh the cost of heating the pond. In fact, in many cases, it would be considerably less to heat your pond rather than to suffer continued losses of good koi through the winter months due to the severe cold temperatures of the water.

And with you being able to continue feeding your koi, you will still have mature biological filtration – you won’t have to go through the process of “Starting Up” your system at the beginning of each season.

With these points in mind, now comes the task of choosing the method of heating that best suits your needs.

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Every pond owner with fish, at some time or another, will probably have to medicate their pond. Though Koi are extremely hardy, it is very important to keep a watch on their environment to keep them at their healthiest.

We carry an extensive line of medications for your Koi.

Attention should be paid to the quality of water and balance of the pond (i.e. pH levels etc.). However, if problems do occur, the first step is to remove the individual fish or decide whether to treat the entire pond.

It is sometimes difficult to be aware of a problem with a fish until its too late.

Be aware of your Koi’s behavior patterns so changes can be detected early. A change in your Koi’s behavior is usually the first sign that that your Koi are stressed or ill.

For a visual description of Koi Diseases Check out our Koi Diseases & Treatments page.

Bacterial Koi Diseases & Treatments
Fin & Tail rot. (Flexibacter Columnaris), Holes. (Aeromonas), Vibrio.

One of the prime causes of fish mortality is bacterial disease. With the exception of “columaris” nearly all bacterial infections occur after another problem has occurred, stress is a prime factor with bacterial disease. Most are gram-negative organisms.

Treatment can be varied but some treatments are Acriflavin, chloramphenicol, sulphonamides, salt, etc. as a dip, topical, or in feed.

Fungal Koi Diseases & Treatments
A secondary infection in the area of some other fish injury. Also affects damaged or disturbed fish eggs.

Treatments include: Acriflavin, iodine, Malachite Green, salt, formalin as a bath, topical, or in pond.

Parasitic Koi Diseases & Treatments
Anchor worm, Fish lice (Argulus), Flukes, Ich, Internal parasites.
Most fish carry parasites, but older fish develop a degree of resistance that prevents problems. Parasites like anchor worms and fish lice usually are a problem whenever present. Young fish are more susceptible to illness caused by parasites. Stress situations and seasonal climatic variations can bring on infections.

Treatments include: Dylox, Masoten, Demilin, Formalin, Malachite Green, potassium permanganate or salt in the whole pond or in a bath.