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Ultraviolet Sterilizers

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Algae Control – No more green water

What’s the difference between a UV Clarifier and a UV Sterilizer?

UV-Clarifiers are used to kill algae along with some disease organisms. The water flows through UV-Clarifiers faster than the UV-Sterilizers.

UV-Sterilizers kill 99% of floating algae as well as other living organisms. They do not harm the beneficial bacteria that grow in filters and on rocks, etc. in the pond. They kill the organisms that are floating in the pond water.

For Koi keeping it is best to opt for a UV sterilizer because it not only clears ‘Green Water’ but, as the term ‘Sterilizer’ infers, it also sterilizes the water itself – thus helping to kill the harmful Bacteria that lives in the water.

How does a UV Filter clear green water?
Single-celled green algae, (Chlorella vulgaris) require light and nutrients to thrive. It is one sign that your pond is generally healthy, and it even makes a great food additive for farm animals, but it doesn’t do much for your overall enjoyment of viewing Koi!

The small algae cells can pass through all conventional filter, so physically filtering them out in their normal form is next to impossible. However, passing the cells through a UV disrupts their internal structure, if not actually killing them, at which time they clump together or ‘flocculate’. These clumps can then be trapped and broken down by the filter.

When to use a UV:
Most Koi keepers will keep their unit(s) on year round. But for small garden ponds you may find that only in the spring, with the combination of longer days and an upsurge in fish activity, is UV necessary. If you do run your UV year-round, it must be protected from frost in a well-ventilated housing. Remember it is important to replace your UV lamps annually for peak performance.

How much UV do you need for your pond?
Purely for green water eradication, 8-10 watts per 1,000 gallons is usually recommended, but some pond keepers will maintain that, for a reduction of bacterial levels, this can be increased threefold to 30 watts. Other factors to consider are of course flow rates, and stocking levels.

Should you have any questions regarding UV, we’ll be only too happy to help you.

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Why would you settle for Plastic when You can have Stainless Steel for less? This exciting new UV was designed to work with today’s low amperage pumps and high flow filters, such as the AquaBead/AlphaONE line.

Sporting an impressive 4″ vessel with 2″ inlets/outlets means no flow restrictions.

These units are truly high performance/high intensity units utilizing over 70,000 microwatts of killing power. Few UV’s can make this claim.

These units won’t nickel and dime you to death. Replace only one lamp instead of several. This could save you big “$”.

Changing a lamp or ballast on these is so simple even an adult can do it. It’s not as complicated as programming your VCR. Remove the top cover, unplug the single 4 prong connector, slide out the lamp and insert the new one and you’re done. Removing the quartz tube is just as easy.


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Aqua Ultraviolet Sterilizers

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Aqua Ultraviolet is the Ultraviolet specialist. “Just turn us on!”

All units are weather resistant and come with a lifetime limited warranty on the housing. International units and parts are available.

The Industry Leader in Ultraviolet Sterilizing: Ultraviolet Sterilization is a proven, dependable and effective method for controlling and eradicating algae spores, bacteria and protozoa present in the water source Ultraviolet alters or disrupts the DNA and RNA of target organisms. By properly implementing an Aqua Ultraviolet disinfecting system in-line, the targeted organisms can be eradicated effectively with out any harmful residuals.

Units Available in White or Black

UV Wattage Maximum Water Flow Maximum Pond Size Inlet / Outlet # of Bulbs
Use this chart
to determine
the right UV.
8 watts 642 gallons per hour 5-200 gallons 2″ 1
15 watts 700 gallons per hour 200-500 gallons 2″ 1
25 watts 1,200 gallons per hour 500-1,200 gallons 2″ 1
40 watts 2,900 gallons per hour 1,200-2,000 gallons 2″ 1
57 watts 3,200 gallons per hour 1,500-3,000 gallons 2″ 1
80 watts 3,678 gallons per hour 2,200-4,400 gallons 2″ 2
120 watts 4,080 gallons per hour 4,400-6,000 gallons 2″ 3
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Filter Media

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We carry a wide variety of replacement filter media for your Koi pond.

Bacteria convert harmful by-products from aquatic animals into less harmful nitrates. This process occurs naturally in nature’s lakes and streams. In a Koi pond, these bacteria are found on the walls of our ponds. They also can be found on the inside walls of the pond plumbing, attached to the skimmer basket, and on the rocks that form a waterfall.

The reason it is important to consider what filter media to use when we build biological filter systems is to increase the available surface area for these bacteria to colonize. The important consideration is to keep the pollutants and unwanted debris out of our ponds while keeping the beneficial bacteria in our systems.

If you have any questions regarding the proper media, feel free to contact us for help.

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Pond Vacuums

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Ponds are often dirty and have an accumulation and build up of debris on the bottom of them. Much of this is organic material that settles and compacts in the depths of the pond. Therefore one of the most proactive and useful things a pond owner can do is keep the pond clean and clear of some of this build up. And pond vacuums are the perfect tool for that.

The “Muck Buster” line of Pond Vacuums offers you 3 sizes of pond vacuum. For small to large ponds, a Matala Pond Vacuum will be a great tool to keep your pond in top shape.

All 3 sizes have the same powerful motor. The new energy efficient German motor design offers the power of a 2 hp with the energy savings of a 1.5 hp. Matala vacuums are known for having great suction power and are very reliable. These vacuums actually have 4 x the suction lift power over the competition. They use only quality hoses, fittings and connections to ensure you get the job done.

The original Pond Vacuum II is a great choice for ponds up to 3,000 gallons. The Pond Vacuum II Plus and the Pond Vacuum Pro are more suitable for bigger jobs.

Matala “Muck Buster” Vacuums all function on a fill and drain cycle. When the holding tank is full the motor will turn off automatically and the dirty water will drain out to the garden or yard drains; downhill by gravity. Once the tank is drained the motor will turn back on automatically to continue vacuuming.

Good pond hygiene will reduce algae growth and improve your fish health. If you have debris building up on the bottom of your pond it may be time for a good pond vacuum.

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Pond Heaters

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There is much debate as to whether koi hibernate in the winter. There are those that would have you believe that this is a natural state and quite healthy for your fish, while others would say that this causes undo stress.

Regardless of which side of the fence you are on, there are some important facts to consider:

  • When koi ponds ice over, harmful gasses from decaying plants, algae and fish waste cannot dissipate.
  • Heating a koi pond helps greatly reduce stress on your stock.
  • Providing heat will assist your koi’s immune system.
  • Your biological filtration will continue and avoid a start-up in the spring.
  • You can continue the feeding of your koi to maintain good nutrition.
  • You can protect your investment, by minimizing loss.

Winter can be very long and harsh for our koi. An increasing number of koi keepers are heating their ponds for the following reasons:

  • Very low temperatures are avoided, causing less stress and associated health problems.
  • Temperature fluctuations are avoided – once again causing less stress to your koi.
  • Koi emerge from the long winter into spring considerably stronger, reducing mortality rates.
  • Your koi’s immune system is not suppressed.
  • Biological filter systems remain active throughout the winter months, avoiding the long start-up process in the spring.
  • Last, but not least, heating your pond allows the Koi keeper to enjoy their hobby throughout the winter months.

Why heat you koi pond?

Well for starters, you will be able to feed your koi for the whole twelve months of the year, so that they will get the full nourishment they require to keep them in good condition. The risk of losing koi will be dramatically reduced because you will be able to maintain a temperature acceptable to them.

With the cost of our koi increasing, it would only take the loss of just a single good koi to far outweigh the cost of heating the pond. In fact, in many cases, it would be considerably less to heat your pond rather than to suffer continued losses of good koi through the winter months due to the severe cold temperatures of the water.

And with you being able to continue feeding your koi, you will still have mature biological filtration – you won’t have to go through the process of “Starting Up” your system at the beginning of each season.

With these points in mind, now comes the task of choosing the method of heating that best suits your needs.

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Koi Pond Aeration

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“Aeration” is the term that we use to mean adding air to the water. Since air contains 22% oxygen, aeration adds oxygen to the water.

There are a number of essential pieces of equipment to consider when planning a pond.

None more so than a good reliable quality air pump.

So why aerate a Koi pond?
A Koi pond is more than a hole in the ground with a liner and some water. In order to have a healthy, dynamic pond environment you also need a biological filter, a source of aeration, a circulation pump and adequate space, or volume. It is important to note that all of these elements must work in harmony with one another.

The filtration system purifies the water of wastes, bacteria and other toxins. An aerator supplies air to the water so the fish will have oxygen and the water does not stagnate. The pump moves the water through the filter and aerator. This cycle is the lifeblood of a pond.

Water ponds, fish, and oxygen … the big secret to Koi fish keeping.
We survive on this earth because we can breathe oxygen. Koi need oxygen and the beneficial bacteria that keep the water healthy need oxygen.

Where is the best place in any pond system to add air or oxygen?
Directly into the biofilter system as close a possible to where the bacteria are sitting. This is why vortex filters and Japanese matting work so fantastically well together in any serious water ponds system …. but only by pumping plentiful volumes of air around the Japanese matting matrix.

How much air should you add to you, Koi Pond?
Add as much air to your pond as you can using air pumps and air stones to distribute the air (highly recommended for ponds that are heavily stocked). You can add the air directly to the pond, the filter, the waterfall and anywhere else you can think of.

* required to maintain dissolved Oxygen at Koi Safe Levels

Pond Volume in Gallons Liters of air/min *
1000 40
2000 80
3000 120
4000 160
5000 200
6000 240
7000 280
8000 320
9000 360
10,000 400

These numbers are intended as a guideline. Your application may vary according to stocking levels. (In general terms, 40lpm per 1000 gallons is a good rule of thumb.)

The amount of oxygen water can hold is dependent upon atmospheric pressure, salinity, and temperature. Water can hold less oxygen as altitude increases. Salinity is not important for most freshwater fish producers. The most important factor is water temperature. As temperature increases, water can hold less oxygen. Most low oxygen problems occur from June through September. The reasons for this are:

  • Water can hold less oxygen as it becomes warmer.
  • Respiration rates of both plants and animals increase with the warmer water, so more oxygen is used.
  • Summer’s still, hazy or cloudy days may reduce the amount of oxygen produced.
  • Large amounts of feed given to fish at this time of year result in large quantities of fish waste which create a higher demand for oxygen.

The last note for safety
NEVER – NEVER install an air pump BELOW water level! (Unless you install a check valve in the line!) If at any time your power supply to your air pump is interrupted, water will back siphon down the delivery tube and flood the pump workings, rendering the pump inoperative, to say nothing of the danger of water and electricity coming in contact.

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Pond Filtration

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Clear water does not necessarily mean clean water, it may contain colorless impurities, such as ammonia and nitrite, that are harmful and can kill Koi, which excrete urine and produce feces, and ammonia is excreted through the gill membranes.  Debris also collects in ponds.

Whether you are building a new pond and need a new filtration system or simply replacing your filter cartridge, we have what you need.

We take great pride in understanding the unique needs that Koi require when it comes to filtration. We can supply the latest products from The Answer, Cyprio, OASE, and more.

Filtration technology changes, and you can trust in us to be ready for you.

It is the job of the filtration system to remove waste which in the wild would be diluted by the large volumes of water or washed away by moving water.
There are three types of filtration: Mechanical, Biological and Chemical.

Mechanical pond filtration.

Most filter media have a mechanical function. Settlement chambers allow gravity to drag the solid waste out of the water by slowing the water flow. Such chambers usually come first in a filter. A vortex unit provides greater settlement, the water moves in a circular movement allowing solids to gather in the center where they can be removed. In addition to baffle plates which slow the incoming water, brushes or matting can be used to strain the water.

Biological pond filtration.

This relies on specific bacteria to break down toxic waste products to less harmful substances. There are two stages in the breakdown of ammonia, each stage involving different types of bacteria. The first stage is the breakdown of ammonia to nitrite by nitrifying bacteria, most important of which is Nitrosomonas. The second stage is the conversion of nitrite to nitrate by Nitrobacter.

Chemical filtration.

Activated carbon removes ammonia and other organic waste products by adsorption, this means that the waste substances become linked to the surface of the carbon. When the surface is ‘full up’ it has to be replaced.

Zeolite removes ammonia and nitrite from the water. A good feature of Zeolite is that it can be cleaned by soaking in salt water (6g per litter) for 24 hours and then reused.

If a large biological filter is present chemical filtration should not be needed, but it is good to use while the biological filter is maturing or isn’t big enough for the pond.

Sand filter. Some Koi keepers use a sand filter as a final stage to ‘polish’ the water. The water is passed under high pressure through sand and comes out very clear, bacterial activity also takes place in the sand filter. Sand filters are expensive though, and you can’t make one yourself because of the high pressure involved.

Cleaning your pond filters.

Filters need to be cleaned occasionally to remove sediment, take this into account when building one. Add a bottom drain to each filter chamber so that sediment can be let out, it makes cleaning much easier. Another thing that makes cleaning easier is to put filter medium in net bags, not just pour it in all at once, as it can then be more easily removed, one bag at a time.

One last important thing, never ever put tap water in a mature filter, it will kill all the bacteria and you will have to let it mature all over again.

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Skimmers and Drains

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The first step in building a pond is ensuring that waste products are efficiently removed from the system. The application of skimmers and bottom drains is essential in this regard.

Pond Skimmers can remove as much as 85% of debris before it settles to the pond bottom and are the most effective way of reducing maintenance and increasing the quality of water in your backyard pond.

The addition of a pond skimmer will greatly reduce the maintenance and increase the enjoyment of your pond.

Pond skimmers are designed to work with other types of filters, as a sort of pre-filter that removes the larger elements such as floating leaves and other debris, which would clog other types of biological or chemical filters. The same deris would also clog the pump.

Many pond skimmers are designed to blend in with your pond’s design. Some may have an artificial rock or natural-looking cover over the top. Some pond skimmers sit outside of the pond, and can even be covered up by garden plants or bushes.

Pond skimmers are an important part of ponds, since they help keep them clean, and works hand-in-hand with filtration and pumping systems. Pond skimmers are easy to install, and can easily be hidden from view.

Pond skimmers should be positioned at the opposite end of a waterfall, if you have one; this will help provide for proper circulation throughout your pond.

A surface skimmer can be used independently from the main filtration system – but it will still require that the water be passed through a filter of some sort.

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Every pond owner with fish, at some time or another, will probably have to medicate their pond. Though Koi are extremely hardy, it is very important to keep a watch on their environment to keep them at their healthiest.

We carry an extensive line of medications for your Koi.

Attention should be paid to the quality of water and balance of the pond (i.e. pH levels etc.). However, if problems do occur, the first step is to remove the individual fish or decide whether to treat the entire pond.

It is sometimes difficult to be aware of a problem with a fish until its too late.

Be aware of your Koi’s behavior patterns so changes can be detected early. A change in your Koi’s behavior is usually the first sign that that your Koi are stressed or ill.

For a visual description of Koi Diseases Check out our Koi Diseases & Treatments page.

Bacterial Koi Diseases & Treatments
Fin & Tail rot. (Flexibacter Columnaris), Holes. (Aeromonas), Vibrio.

One of the prime causes of fish mortality is bacterial disease. With the exception of “columaris” nearly all bacterial infections occur after another problem has occurred, stress is a prime factor with bacterial disease. Most are gram-negative organisms.

Treatment can be varied but some treatments are Acriflavin, chloramphenicol, sulphonamides, salt, etc. as a dip, topical, or in feed.

Fungal Koi Diseases & Treatments
A secondary infection in the area of some other fish injury. Also affects damaged or disturbed fish eggs.

Treatments include: Acriflavin, iodine, Malachite Green, salt, formalin as a bath, topical, or in pond.

Parasitic Koi Diseases & Treatments
Anchor worm, Fish lice (Argulus), Flukes, Ich, Internal parasites.
Most fish carry parasites, but older fish develop a degree of resistance that prevents problems. Parasites like anchor worms and fish lice usually are a problem whenever present. Young fish are more susceptible to illness caused by parasites. Stress situations and seasonal climatic variations can bring on infections.

Treatments include: Dylox, Masoten, Demilin, Formalin, Malachite Green, potassium permanganate or salt in the whole pond or in a bath.